Mendocino

"Teeny Bopper, my teenage lover I caught your waves last night It sent my mind to wonderin'. You're such a groove, Please don't move.

Please stay in my love house by the river."

"What's this song?  Who is this?" Phil asked.

"Sir Douglas Quintet, the song's called Mendocino."

"Isn't that the name of the place we are heading?"

"Sure is.  It's beautiful.  You're going to love it."

I had heard the song two years earlier on an summer's evening on a New York City rooftop.  Like Phil, I asked a similar question to my friend Lee.  Despite being from the West Coast,  I had never heard of the remote county in the Northwest portion of California and assumed it was some place on the central coast.   Not until hitting the road and traveling up and down the California Coast on the PCH did I find the special part of the state described in that 70's song.

After spending two days in Humboldt, we headed down the 101 towards the start of the PCH and the Mendocino Coast.  The bluffs and steep hillsides resemble Big Sur, but without the convertible rental cars. Four hours from San Francisco,  the area is sleepy and seldom traveled, save for a few notable holiday weekends.  Travelers between San Francisco and Oregon opt to take the 101 or I-5,  leaving the PCH with local access to small coastal towns. Periodic vacancy signs announced the level of bustle.

Camping in turn-offs along the PCH, we worked our way down the coast.

Big Trees.

Fences.

Driftwood.

Phil snapping flicks.

Sunset off the PCH.

#vanlife.

Welcome.

Easy Rider.

"Please stay here with me in Mendocino, Mendocino, Mendocino Where life's such a groove, You blow your mind in the morning We used to walk through the park, Make love along the way in Mendocino Mendocino, Mendocino, Mendocino"

Someday...

Here are some links,

Mendocino (Facebook),

Mendocino (Sir Douglas Quintet).

Life is Better When You Surf

"It has a really shitty learning curve," I said to Tim as he sat in the sand with his arms crossed on his knees, still dripping from an outside set.  Setting my board down in the sand,  I unzipped the chest zip and pulled the flap over my head.

"You get rocked for awhile.  It goes with the territory.  When I started surfing,  I rode one of Dan's thrusters.  I got slammed by 40 degree hurricane swell for a year or two before I finally figured out what was going on. It was so fucking cold."

"I just don't feel like I'm going anywhere when I paddle.  I can't get any speed."

"Yea, that feeling sucks.  It's all about making small adjustments, moving forward and backwards until you get balanced."

"I was trying that." Tim pushed his toes down into the granular and then flicked them up. "Let's go hike up one of those," Tim nodded towards a nearby hill."

"Comme onnn Tim.  It just takes time...practice.  It's like learning to snowboard or skate.  You just have to do it."  I flipped my 6'3 hull over and inspected the finbox.  Pulling the board up towards my mouth, I sucked at a recently repaired crack along the front of the finbox.  No water or air escaped despite my attempts to give my beloved board a hickey.

"I'm going back out."

"Wait, I'll go, just let me chill for a second. Let me catch my breath."

"Alright."  Laying back down on the sand, I propped my head on a round rock.   A few driftwood structures dotted the empty beach at Andrew Molera State Park.  We were the only surfers at the beach on an unremarkable Wednesday.  The waves were small but protected from the howling north wind by the point.  I closed my eyes and listened to waves break.

Bananas.

Sunset in Big Sur.

Blam's set up.

Hand painted.

Campsite.

Classic sticks.

Girl Scout cookies stacked 7 high and guarded by loyal pooch.

"If you want the ultimate, you've to got be willing to pay the ultimate price.."

Spring green.

Chaco tacos.

This dude is DTVL.  Down to #VanLife.

An especially loud crash made me sit up, "When you get it,  you're going to rip.  It's such a wild sensation."

"Yea, it looks fun," Tim grinned. "Everyone that's riding waves looks so pumped."

"It just takes patience.  That's one of the reasons I like it so much.  I'm not good at waiting for anything,  but with surfing,  you have to wait for the waves to be good and  the wind to be right.  Then, when you paddle out you have to take the right waves.  A good surfer is wise.  That's not the case with snowboarding or skating. Surfing makes you more wise."

For a minute we sat and watched a few waves roll through.

"You ready?"

"Alright,  I'm ready."

Here are some more links,

Life is Better When (Facebook).

#vanlife (Instagram). 

Changing Tide

 The Toyota Yaris bounced down the one lane road through the barren farm land.  My tshirt, saturated with gringo sweat, stuck to the wooden beads covering the passenger seat  despite the frantic efforts of the overworked air conditioner.  Two surf bags secured to the top with nylon straps, accentuated every pothole with a creak and grind of sun worn paint.   The cab driver, unfazed by the frequent pigs and log sized ruts in the road,  focused his attention on sorting through the hundreds of songs on his USB powered stereo.  Skipping through tracks that seemed about as similar as houses in a Phoenix suburb, he picked one and let it play through.

"How many Kilometers did they the say it was from Rivas?" I asked Cris in the backseat.

Looking back from the window, "I'm not sure,  cant be more than 40," Cris said with a tone of calming indifference.

"We must be getting close now."

A few hundred feet ahead, a Mercedes flat bed truck crested the hill with a cloud of dust and whir of a powerful diesel engine.  Adhering to the nautical term,  "Might has right,"  our cab pulled off to the side.  As the truck bounced by,  I noticed the logo of an aspiring golf course/resort painted on the door.

"Mucho trabajo,"  the cab driver said pointing in the general direction of the truck as he shifted from first to second.

Cris and I nodded in agreement.

"This road is sure getting a lot of use," I said, making mental note of the thick layer of dust covering the trees within twenty feet of the road.

"Yah,  the richest family in Nicaragua is building a huge resort out here.  It's a ten year project.  They want Americans and Euros to buy places,"  Cris said, maintain his gaze out the window.

"Jesus. When did they start?"

"Two years ago, I think.  About the time we first came down here."

"Changing tide, I guess."

Point of View.

Transport.

Hammocks.

Siesta time.

Sunset glass off.

The quiver.

Handmade.

Travelers.

Heading back.

The local quiver.

Despite the commotion happening a few miles inland,  the fishing town seemed sleepy in the mid day heat. Fisherman tended to their nets and maintained their outboard engines under the shade of corrugated fiberglass roofing.  On the other side of the street, at the lone cafe, a handful of sunburnt surfers  drank iced coffee and enjoyed the bounty of satellite internet from the comfort of a few hammocks.   Time felt still,  as if everyone was waiting for an inevitable change.

"It wont be like this in a few years," I said to Cris.

"No, no it wont."

Here are some more links,

Gigante (Facebook),

(Twitter). 

Cris

I checked my watch.  Ten minutes to the T since the last time I looked and still 45 minutes to mid tide.  Closing my eyes,  I pushed off the ground with my right foot using the same attitude as if addressing a stray dog.  The hammock creaked violently.

"I can't take this any more,"  I said sitting up in the midday heat.  "I'm getting in the water."

"Patience, patience.  Give it another hour or so," Cris responded from a chair some 10 feet away.  Keeping his attention transfixed on cleaning the sand from a small sea shell with a pliers and needle, he continued, "the tide's still too high,  it will be all closeouts."

"I know, but this is killing me.  I can hear them breaking,"  I said grabbing my Fish from the rack and haphazardly wrapping the leash around the board's keel fins.

"I'll see you out there then."  Cris looked up from his afternoon work with a sheepish grin, conveying at the same time both his disapproval and support of my eagerness.

I first met Cris in the spring of my senior year at the very same beach in Nicaragua. Escaping the cold New England winter, two close friends and I cut class for a week and headed down for some surfing.  Cris introduced himself within 10 minutes of us arriving at the beach.   Over the next week and a half,  we made fast friends.

Cris's path to happiness contrasted with the one presented to me from elementary school on.  After serving in the Navy during the Vietnam war,  he worked for 35 years as the custodian of the Watsonville Post Office in central California.  During his time at the Post Office,  he took one class per semester at the local community college, studying topics from math to dance.  He surfed when he could and used his vacations for backpacking trips exploring the mountains of California.  Taking advantage of an early offer for retirement,  Cris had recently focused his energy back towards surfing and creating art in various mediums.  On a whim, Cris headed to Nicaragua for a month long trip by himself after seeing a show about the break on Fuel TV.

I grew up in a world where the path to happiness was an impatient focus on achieving financial and creative success.  At my college,  a small liberal arts school in Maine, my peers groomed themselves for careers as doctors, lawyers and investment bankers.  I wasn't above this pressure, and before I stepped foot on campus my senior year,  I already had a design job lined up at Ralph Lauren in NYC.  

Cris's patience and appreciation of surfing, meeting new people and enjoying the outdoors forced me to reevaluate my expectations.  It didn't happen overnight, nothing worthwhile does.

The following winter,  I took off a week from work and flew down from New York with my younger brother to meet up with Cris and catch some waves.  Once again, Cris's perspective was an eye opener compared to the cut-throat culture I was surrounded by in New York.  Two months after returning back to New York,  I started the process to leave my job.

Mark Twain once said that, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..."  I'm not sure if Cris knows this quote or not, but he certainly embodies the ethos behind it.

By the time Cris made his way down the beach with his fins and body board and paddled out,  I was worn out from battling closeouts, just as he had predicted.  His timing couldn't have been better.  The waves shaped up and started breaking off the sandbars.   For the next three hours we took turns catching waves.  Cris did most of the wave riding and I did most of the paddling.  Maybe next year I'll wait the extra 45 minutes.

Here are some more links,

Last Minute (Facebook).

 Phil took these water flicks.