Steamer Lane

Riding the whitewater on my stomach,  I leaned left towards the rocky point of Steamer Lane.  Rolling off my board ten feet from the rocks, I landed in waist deep water and felt my way towards the shore.  Scrambling out of the water,  I ripped  the Velcro leash off my right ankle and wrapped it around the board haphazardly.  Following the route of the handful of surfers in front of me, I climbed and jumped between the boulders until reaching the stairs.  From there, it was a foot race along the sidewalk towards back towards the point.

Trailing the other surfers I stopped my light jog at the Syncro, and dropped my board in the grass. Fight against light.  Rushing to pull off my wetsuit down to the waist,  I popped open the sliding door and grabbed my Olympus XA from the center console.  Its analog dial read 17, meaning that there were still 20 or so exposures left in the roll.  Equipped to rip.

A set rolled through the lineup and with a distant crash  the ground shook and the crowd of onlookers cheered their approval.  Their hoots continued and, based on the continuous grinding of the wave,  I assumed some lucky surfer was getting a great ride all the way back to the rocks that I had climbed out of.  The kind of ride that end up as people's Facebook profile pics.   Slamming the door, I followed the ant-like trail of running surfers along the sidewalk towards the point.

Holding the camera strap in my mouth, I climbed over the fence and headed towards the group of surfers waiting their turn to jump back in.  By now the sun was a half circle on the horizon,  giving the surfers an added sense of purpose.  This combined with some exceptional waves rolling in had them talking in two-word sentences and grunts.

One after another,  the surfers jumped the 10 feet or so off of the point into the water and paddled back into position.  Each wave advanced the cycle.

Standing in my dripping wetsuit,  I snapped shots and wound the film with the thumb wheel.  A good winter swell at Steamer Lane is one of those things you will never forget.

Here are some more links

Steamer Lane (Wikipedia),

Santa Cruz (Facebook album),

Twitter.

Let Them Eat Sand!

"Dude. Did you see that sign?" I said, taking a sip of tepid coffee from my thermos.

"No. What was it?" Spencer looked back through the rear window of the Syncro.

"'Sandboarding!  Rentals$20 for 24 hours. The sign is straight out of Back to the Future."

"Fuck yah, lets check it out."

Signaling my concurrence, I turned onto the shoulder just north of Florence, Oregon on the 101 and let the minivan behind us pass.

"I have always wanted to try this.  It looks totally ridiculous."

Five minutes later,  Spencer and I were standing in one of the world's only dedicated sandboarding shops getting the scoop about the history of the sport from the owner, operator and enthusiast.  Resembling a former WWF wrestler, and sporting a mustache and ponytail, he informed us that sandboarding has been around long before snowboarding and that it was in fact an inspiration for Jake Burton.  I kept my mouth shut and nodded.   After the "history" lesson and short video highlighting the sport's potential in various sand dunes around the world, Spencer were on our way, boards in hand.

That afternoon, we hiked around the dunes of Honeyman State park exploring shoots and picking lines.  Although the conditions weren't ideal,  (sandboarding favors dry sand and being the middle of January in Oregon, the sand was wet) we got the hang of things pretty quickly.  Sandboarding feels like riding a snowboard in powder.  All the steering is with your back foot, and bad things happen when you put weight on your front foot.

They ollie just like a snowboard.  Yours truly shredding a shoot.

Waxing up the board before a session.

Spencer summitting the hill.

The boards have similar construction to a skateboard, but with a layer of polyurethane on the bottom.  Home Depot project perhaps?

Sand scrub.

Cranking a turn,  hand on the wave.

Dodging a patch of grass, I carved my way down the narrow shoot.  Pointing the board directly at Spencer,  I picked up speed and turned to the right at the last minute spraying him with a few handfuls of sand.

"Duddde.  Seriously."

"Haha you were asking for it."

"I'm over it.  Lets head back to the car."

Taking a moment,  I looked back up the hill at our handy work.  In the distance a yahoo's four-wheeler screamed up a hill.  I kicked off the board.  "Alright.  I'll be doing this again."

"As will I."

Here are some more links,

Sand Surfing (Facebook).

Twitter.

L.A. to Washougal

"How many days do you want to drive it in?" I asked my dad on speaker phone at a stoplight in Ventura.

"Well, at minimum, three but I would like to do more than that...I'm looking at flights right now into Burbank.  They are dirt cheap.  60$ one way with tax."

"I'm all for more days.  Three days would be a schlep.  Plus, the Syncro doesn't like I-5 much.  Lets take our time up the 1, or go up east through Death Valley and the Sierras."

"In December?  Are you fucking kidding me?  I'm not flying down from Washington to spend more time in cold weather. I want to see palm trees and eucalyptus groves."

"Ha I guess you're right.  Lets do the 1 then."

"Cool.  Tim and I will fly down on the 20th and we'll head back up to Washougal for Christmas.  This will be a blast."

As planned,  I picked them up at the Burbank airport a few days later and we headed north.  We took our time meandering up Route 1. Surfing, hiking and skateboarding, we made a few hundred miles each day.  At night,  we crammed into the back of the van and had snoring contests.

Picture this, three six footers (I'm 6'3, Tim's 6'8 and my dad's 6'1) in VW van, listening to the Grateful Dead and eating at taco trucks.

December denial.

A surf session in Bolinas.

Jalama Beach.

Shred sticks.

Could be anywhere in Latin America, but no, its Lincoln Heights.

Tshirts.

The Channel Islands.

We left the bulk of the driving for the last day and made it back to Washougal early Christmas morning.  I couldn't say exactly when, because Tim and I were asleep in the backseat.

Some memories are better captured on 35mm film.

Here are some more links,

Facebook,

Twitter.

Dark and Stormy

The river along US-26 boiled like two week old coffee down the drain.  Rounding the last corner before merging with 101,  a gust of wind shook the Syncro's flat sides, forcing me to take a kiddy pool sized puddle head on.  With a crrrrshhh, we displaced half the puddles contents onto a Toyota Tacoma in the oncoming lane.   For the last few hours,  the rain had battled with the fastest setting of the windshield wipers.   Advantage rain.

Pulling off the highway a few miles south, the streets of Canon Beach were empty save for a few SUVs and local pickups.  Gusts on the flags at souvenir shops and water around the storm drains hinted at why.   Eager to catch a glimpse of the ocean,  I pulled off onto a side street.  Familiar with the saying, "We'll get'em when he comes back in," well the last scene of Point Break was filmed at this beach in similar conditions.

"That looks like...hell," my mom said rolling down the windows to get a better view.

"Yah.  Wow,  that's what a half mile of whitewater looks like."

"Let's go for a walk."

"A walk?"  Looking down the beach I spotted a lone person leaning at a twenty degree angle into the wind. "Yeah lets."

Shortsands Beach.

Serious #vanlife envy.  These Mitsubishi Delica's can't be imported into the US, but our friends to the north, and the rest of the world, can get one for a few grand.  They are 4wd, come in turbo diesel and get between 25 and 30 MPG.

A duly named street.

Some fresh driftwood.

Wet.

Taking it all in.

It's often said that, "the Pacific Northwest has two seasons,  August and 11 months of rain and fog."  While I agree with this maxim,  it fails to capture the violence and intensity of the storms that charge down from the Aleutian Islands in the "Winter Months."   Before bringing waves to Hawaii's north shore,  these storms slam into the PNW as feral beasts, pulling trees from the ground, flooding rivers and closing harbors.  They breaking up the endless months of fog and mist,  with weather alerts and road closures.  Nowhere is their power more evident than on the northern Oregon Coast.  They make you feel small and vulnerable.

Here are some more links,

Facebook,

Twitter.